Out and About Hersonissos: Crete
The final stop of this Greek island hopping trip was Hersonissos. If you tend to look for package holiday deals you’ll probably have come across this destination. I came across it largely via Youtube videos where countless influencer types seemed to be jetting off to Hersonissos for press trips.
Though not unpleasant, it was the least favourite part of my Greek Island hopping journey, and not somewhere I’d recommend as a sole holiday destination – compared to the other parts of Greece I’ve visited. Location-wise it was very handy for the flight back from Heraklion airport, but…3 nights in Hersonissos was plenty for me, then again, different strokes and all that.
Yikes I’m just going to say it – it didn’t feel like Greece.
Hersonissos felt like a tourist strip/trap/combined with a London high road, ram packed with shops and eateries/students/traffic, but no Greek character. Also, ram-packed with lots of British accents, you’ll hear them everywhere (I have one too, it’s the only one I’ve got so I’m not bashing them lol), but as a Brit myself it was so apparent, especially on an evening when all the tourist herds came out trawling down ‘the strip’ like a typical Friday/Sat night in many parts of the UK. Good trade for the Greek economy though 😊 👍
If you’re from the UK you might just bump into someone you know lol – that’s the feeling.
Above: Seems like there’s all sorts happening outside this joint! The newlyweds (with a photographer nearby) were having a burger while I assume the cat was waiting for one!
Hersonissos seems very popular with what felt like a lot of teen aged type travellers, not exclusively, but markedly more noticeable in number (and in larger groups) than on Santorini/Naxos/ Paros or even Rethymnon/Chania on Crete. Hersonissos felt like it could have been a tourist strip anywhere – it really stands apart from all other parts of Greece I’ve visited.
That said, the sea front has some lovely scenic waves and plenty of places to sip drinks and eat out, especially on the other side of the Hersonissos harbour.
A Hersonissos Tragedy
My time in Hersonissos was tainted by a fatal accident that I pretty much witnessed from my hotel balcony one Saturday, the day before flying home.
Unfortunately, Greece is known for seeing a high number of tourist deaths by drowning.
Despite the warnings of big waves/do not swim, two men jumped off a rock into rough waves for a swim, they looked full of excitement, enjoying their plunge – but within minutes one of the women with them (standing safely on the beach) seemed to be shouting at them, urgently to come back with her arms flying wildey, she looked distressed….and rightly so.
Long story short, one man ended up making it back to the rocks (not a long swim at all, but the waves/currents are the bigger danger, not the distance). The other man was trying, but kept on being pulled back out away from the rock by the current. Could he have hurt himself against a rock underwater, not visible on the surface….did he swallow too much water……maybe.
Help had been called for. Nobody dared jump in to try and rescue him – seeing how rough and dangerous the waves were. His family/friends looked grief stricken, hands over their heads and mouths, shouting him to come back, crying now – but he couldn’t get back.
My heart, my tears. The lump in my throat as I watched this. ‘He’s going to drown….’ It was devastatingly awful, a very quick and scary reminder of how dangerous the sea can be.
It was as if he’d already drowned before our eyes….where were they emergency services, what was taking so long???
After what seemed like an eternity of him managing to keep his head above water, going under a few times, eventually making it up onto a big rock with the help of a big wave, he (I assume) probably ended up unconscious. His wife/family were frantic, tripping over, trying to run across the rocks and drag him across the rocks as far away from the water as possible – they must have been relieved, momentarily.
The family and locals were running up and down the area in a panic, locals and tourists all flooding over on foot, surrounding the scene, local restaurant staff bringing towels, water, anything they thought might be helpful…..people from local businesses stepping out and making their way over to see what was going on, including local hotel staff, traffic unable to move up or down the area – road block.
All of this while what seemed like forever before a lifeguard emergency truck arrived. Then another long length of time before an ambulance arrived – it felt like at least an hour must have gone by before the paramedics finally took the man into the back of the ambulance on a stretcher, (after initially taking some sort of chair down to the scene) grabbing the stretcher from the ambulance right at the last minute…..at first I thought he must have been ok/going to survive otherwise surely they would have rushed him to a hospital ASAP right??? Maybe not.
But – on that stretcher, he had what looked like an oxygen mask over his face (so he must have been breathing right??) but the look of his body and the way the paramedics carried the stretcher seemed….I don’t know, something sunk heavy.
The man’s family/friends were running up and down all over, looking for his possessions – I think. Those poor people, they were so happy one minute and then the next – this.
My heart. I was overcome seeing all this from a distance.
There had been another man in a wetsuit swimming further out to sea, I’d seen him earlier, he’d been snorkeling for ages, very slender and moving through the water like a fish. Where the wetsuit man was swimming, the waters seemed calmer, away from the rocks – he looked like an experienced diver-type, savvy at avoiding the current, ending up back to shore much further down the beach. I remember reading somewhere that being able to swim further out and around the current to get back to safety can save your life if you know what you’re doing, and a strong enough swimmer.
I googled the local news thereafter until I came across a news article the following day that seemed to match the date, location and sequence of events – the struggling man had been pronounced dead in hospital on the Saturday he arrived there.
I might be wrong, but I think he had already gone before they put him in the ambulance, but to save the family some dignity and privacy, the paramedics didn’t want to break this to them in front of a huge audience of staring strangers and prying eyes – hence waiting to get to the hospital first. 💔
Months on, I still tear up when I think back to that Saturday afternoon in Hersonissos.
Please, please, please be careful out there, the oceans and seas are a force mightier than we often care to remember. Better to be safe…. 🙏
Au Revoir Greece, final thoughts
Four weeks went fast across Santorini, Naxos, Paros and Crete.
The first time I visited Greece, I loved it and said I wanted to return and see more. I’ve seen much more now, and still open to going back to see even more. 😊
Do it your way
I’d urge you not to feel obliged to head to the most ‘instagram popular’ or commonly hyped up destinations – since the less popular places are often just as (if not more) beautiful and certainly more authentic, and this goes for anywhere in the world, not just Greece. Do it your way, and enjoy your moments without feeling the need replicate the experiences of other people to tick a box.
Do you like Greece?
If anyone doesn’t like Greece please tell me why – I’m genuinely curious to know what irks people about Greece. 🤔 I know being a quick stop tourist doesn’t really give you a true experience of life in a country but even as a holiday destination, does anyone feel strongly that it’s not their cup of tea?
The whole blue and white colour scheme against blue seas, hearty food and quirky old towns with cute winding streets and pretty sunsets beats the grey UK skies of home for a while, that’s for sure.
Another note on food and shopping
Before visiting Greece I read that Greeks don’t generally eat breakfast (hence the uninspiring continental breakfasts offered in most accommodation) Greeks also tend to eat out late – 9pm onwards (including with children), sometimes arriving at restaurants around midnight. All true.
The same guide book advised that lamb is generally free range and organic in source, while chicken tends to be battery farmed…..though I heard that lamb was generally more difficult to come by for restaurant owners….not sure why. 🤨 Whenever moussaka was on a menu, it wasn’t with lamb…but often beef instead!!
How’s the economy doing?
From what I’ve gathered, the financial crisis (or “Krisis” as the Greeks spell it) and recession that first hit Greece in 2010 seems to have simmered, and tourism is still the prime source of income for Greece, perhaps more now than ever.
In October 2023 food prices in Greece went up faster than anywhere else in Europe. Cost of living crisis – according to https://cyclades24.gr/
Despite ongoing challenges, an increase in economic growth is forecast for the next couple of years in Greece, including increases in incomes – I hope this is true across the board.
The intel shared by a local about young people increasingly choosing to leave Greece because they don’t see a future for themselves there….. well hopefully that might start to change. 💫
However, earlier last year, thousands of students rallied in Greece against government plans to allow private universities, the aim being to try and keep students from studying abroad and taking valuable skills out of Greece.
Overtourism and finding ways to balance this against the need for tourism is still ongoing, in terms of holiday rentals and cruise ships.
These are just a couple of snippets I’ve glanced updates on recently, but I’m sure there are plenty of other factors at play.
I do hope things settle down for the better – you can find all my other Greece blog posts here if you’re interested, and I wish anyone heading out to Greece, happy and safe travels while you’re there, immerse and enjoy. 🙏 🤗 🔆 🇬🇷
thomasstigwikman
We’ve been to Crete but not Hersonissos. I am originally from Sweden and it was a place with a lot of Swedes and Germans (sorry forget the name). My wife’s father is originally from Crete. I wonder if the accident you describe could have been a rip current, or a riptide.
Cherryl
Yes I think a rip current/tide was probably behind it, sadly – the man seemed at the mercy of the wave – he couldn’t swim back.
c.f. leach
I’ve always wanted to go to Greece. Hopefully, I’ll get there some day. Really enjoyed the article.
Cherryl
💐 wishing you safe travels when you do, I’m sure you’ll enjoy Greece.
Garrulous Gwendoline
In the late 1970s I spent five months on Crete. Most of the time (illegally) working in hospitality in Stalida (Stalis). This lies between Malia and Chersonissou/Hersonissos. I have such fond memories and would love to return. In recent years, aerial views show me that what were once sparsely populated separate beachfront villages are now one continuous strips of hotels. And sadly, your post confirms my fears. If I ever get back to Greece, it will have to be to one of the less well-known islands, or another part of Crete. Agios Nikolaos used to be pretty, especially when the fishing boats had just pulled in and were selling their catch directly to the restaurant owners. I suppose it must be quite developed now also.
Cherryl
Sounds like things have changed a lot, (mass) tourism has transformed lots of countries, hotels shooting up everywhere, heavy tourist crowds etc. Sounds like it was a nicer time during those five months you spent on Crete….when I was researching this Greek island hopping trip Malia kept coming up in reviews as an area to avoid on Crete (but maybe it’s just a personal preference thing). I prefered Paros and Naxos to what I saw of Crete, but Crete is pretty big so I’m sure there’ll be other faces of it to explore on a future visit. Every bit of this Greece trip beat the gloomy rainy days back in the UK at the time lol. ☀️🇬🇷😊
Garrulous Gwendoline
It’s an interesting island and being there relatively close to the end of WWII, I was warmly greeted whenever I went further inland, as the Aussie soldiers left a good impression. Agriculture often was still using traditional methods, threshing wheat by oxen and flailing by hand for example. I went to another part of the island to pick grapes for raisins. Donkeys were used to haul our panniers to the dipping area and then the grapes strung out to dry in the sunshine. Lots of good memories which would be ruined by joining the tourist throngs.
Later I spent a week or so on Poros (not to be confused with Paros). That was very nice. Also not busy as it was late autumn.
The Snow Melts Somewhere
Oh, such a shocking story. We once (15 years ago) saw a man getting treated by paramedics at a restaurant in Hawaii. I’m pretty sure in retrospect was dead. It’s haunted me ever since and in my mind, his skin is grey. I’m not sure if my mind is just adding that detail.
Anyway, I once spent 6 months working in Crete, pretty close to Hersonissos, and that’s where we’d go to party. This was 20 years ago and I was in my 20’s. But Hersonissos wasn’t very nice and I wouldn’t have wanted to stay there. I was located at a smaller town near Chania (which I quite liked and visited often, too). But I never even thought twice about swimming in the sea over there!
Interesting post and I’ll be following you for more!
vermavkv
I have never been to Greece but I loved to know about.
It is interesting to read your article and about this place.
mjeanpike
I’m so sorry your vacation included such a tragedy. It looks like a lovely place.
Michael O'Connor
So scary about the water and under currents. So dangerous.
Cherryl
Absolutely✨
Ebby LeBlanc
Greece is on my bucket list. I will be checking out your series of post.
Cherryl
Have a lovely time when you go, I’d love to read your Greece posts too 🔆😊🇬🇷
Awakening Wonders
Greece is so full of history – and your post brought back memories of our sojourn there.
Cherryl
💫✨ Lovely
Carolyn Page
Wonderful images, Cheryl, and your commentary was delightful. I’d love to visit Greece one day, but I’ve a few countries in the bucket list first.
Such a sad thing is drowning. I often watch our Bondi Beach Lifesaver docs on television. It can be so quick, especially when the individual is not a strong swimmer and caught in a rip – they are a frequent happening here in Australian beaches. It is typically the tourists who find themselves in trouble. I believe it is because they don’t understand the dangers that swimming in unfamiliar environs can bring.
Cherryl
Thank you Carolyn, I think you’re right about tourists and not being familiar with the waters, it’s very sad.
Miriam
Hi Cherryl, what a harrowing and horrific account of that poor man drowning in the sea. I’ve no doubt it would have affected everyone that day, I feel so very sad for his family and friends. The sea really does need to be treated with the highest respect, especially when there’s rocks involved. Again, so sad.
Have really enjoyed all your posts on Greece. Being of Italian heritage I love all things food related, those colours, the culture, the Mediterranean way of life. But touristy and instagrammable places are off my radar these days. You are a vibrant, wonderful story teller. Hope your 2025 is off to a flying start! 💗
Cherryl
We could take many good leaves out of the mediterranean book, here in the UK, no doubt about that.
Thank you Miriam – and your magazine articles look really good, fabulous🥂💛
Miriam
Thank you so much!!
Dalmatian Insider
Yikes! I’ll make a note to skip this place. Although the restaurant on the beach looks nice. So horrible what happened. I wonder if he got caught in a riptide. When that happens, it’s best to swim parallel to the shore until you’re out of the rip current.
Cherryl
You might be right about the riptide – and thanks for sharing that tip ✨ 👍
Dalmatian Insider
Very happy to share the tip! I learned it during a part of my life when I lived near a coastal region in the US.
Anonymous
Hersonissos (and nearby Malia too) are definitely places to avoid — so many more beautiful and less annoying places in Crete to visit. You described that well. Terrible about the drowning — too many people underestimate the strong sea currents.
Cherryl
I’d heard warnings about Malia….that sounded like a definite no-no.
tidalscribe.com
Thanks for another good trip. I have never been to Greece.
To witness a drowning tragedy must be very different from hearing on the news, especially when he seems to nearly have saved himself. I often think that with tragedies, big or just one person, there will be many people affected by being there as witnesses.
Cherryl
It’s profoundly different to hearing or reading about it – being so close to the event really touches you.💔
Linda K
I have never been to Greece but would have assumed it was all very “authentic” so it was interesting to read your article about this place. If anything I would have thought places like Santorini or Crete would have been less authentic but I imagine they want these places to stay “real” for the tourists. I agree about the instagram comment…seems like more and more people are looking for those places only to find they aren’t what they appear.
Cherryl
Thankfully, the majority of what I’ve seen was very pleasant, but it pays to do some research before choosing where to go, that’s for sure! 😊🔆
Monkey's Tale
What a horrible scene to witness Cherryl. An awful way to end a trip.
Your description of Hersonissos though reminded me of a few places in Turkey where fish and chips shops and British accents were more common than Turkish kebabs. We usually try to stay away from the Instagram hotspots, but sometimes you can’t avoid them.
Good to have you back blogging. 😊 Maggie
Cherryl
Wow, I’ll have to look into Turkey a bit more if I ever get around to another visit lol. When you fly off abroad, it helps if if feels like ‘somewhere else’ when you get there 😉 🔆
Thanks Maggie 🤗
Monkey's Tale
Just Antalya and Bodrum areas are filled with Brits, the rest of the country feels like Turkey 😊
Ab
It’s so nice to see a post from you, Cherryl. Happy new year!
I’m very sorry about the man that drowned. When I see those posts on social media of people jumping, I always wince because of the inherent dangerous behaviour. So sad for that man’s family.
Your Greek vacation otherwise looked amazing. The scenery, the food and those beautiful waters. What an experience of a lifetime!
Cherryl
Thank you Ab, and a ✨✨ Happy New Year to you too!✨✨ 🤗
Sheila Landry Designs
Hi, Cherryl! Again – Happy New Year. I thoroughly enjoyed your entire series of your travels to Greece. Whenever I have seen it in the movies, it looks pristine and spectacular. While no place is a true paradise all the time, it certainly looks to be interesting, inviting, and beautiful.
I was so sorry to read of the tragedy of the man. It immediately made me think of the many who have lost their lives at our own Peggy’s Cove lighthouse here in Nova Scotia. I have only been to the lighthouse once in the 21 years I have been here, but there are signs all over warning of the danger of venturing out on the slippery rock, which are continually pounded by the ocean. Nonetheless, there were STILL people creeping out, as if to dare the Gods to take them. All I could think of was how foolish people are sometimes. They always think it won’t happen to ‘them’.
Many, if not most of the beaches along the shorline here are rocky and covered with slippery plants and seaweed during lower tides. Nova Scotia boasts the highest tides in the world, and that means that each cycle exposes these trecherous rocks and offers them up to those who wish to answer their calling. I learned long ago that it isn’t wise to venture out on them, and even if you are on sandy areas, you need to be continually mindful of where the water is, as when the tide returns, it does so quicker than you may think. You need to use your common sense. We have often seen tourists yamming it up for a photo at the risk of being washed out to sea among the boulders and rocks. It is hard to understand.
But people will be people, won’t they? There isn’t much you can do except warn them. There have been fences put up in places where they were either cut or bent down to allow passage despite the warnings. Some are determined to roll the dice on their own fate.
I wish you all the best in 2025 and look forward to reading of your trips – near and far. Even the pictures inside the specialty shops are fun to see. I love learning about different cultures and enjoy their artwork, food, and learning of the lifestyles of distant lands.
Thank you for being such an excellent story teller. <3
Cherryl
You’re so right, people never think it will happen to ‘them’ – sadly. I guess there’s a fine line between the exhilaration of the experience and taking high risks for some people…playing russian roulette with danger.
The tides in Nova Scotia sound like they’d be amazing to watch – but from a safe distance 👌 🌊
Glad you enjoyed the post Sheila – arts, crafts and pretty buildings is one of the things you’ll never grow tired of in Greece – I think you’d love it!
Very best wishes – have a fabulous 2025 💫 ✨ 🔆 💐