If you’re planning a first time trip to Kenya, this will probably be a handy post since it’s highly likely you’ll start your trip in Nairobi, Kenya’s capital.

It’s a bit of a long post 😜 I know (grab a drink), I’m cramming in ‘everything Nairobi’  in here for easy ref:

• Petting orphaned baby elephants via Sheldrick Wildlife Trust
• Feeding giraffes with snacks at the Nairobi Giraffe Centre
• Carnivore restaurant – a meat feast
• Visit – a charitable women-led beads, leather/ceramics factory called Kobe Tough
• Quick dip into Nairobi National Park
• A look at Eka Hotel and Four Points by Sheraton Nairobi Airport Hotel

Impressions of Nairobi

From the little I saw, the vibe in Nairobi  is ‘busy metropolis’ skyscrapers, thick heavy traffic, matutus, and slums, markets, hustling, bustle, people everywhere….all within easy reach of a peaceful, lion clad national park. Quite a mix.

I spent three nights here before my main safari started and another night before my flight home for some much needed sleep and general rest.

We also drove through Nairobi for a lunch stop on the way back from Amboseli up to Lake Naivasha.

There are wealthy affluent areas (including a popular area called Karen) as well as officially defined slums; we drove through/by both ends of the spectrum.

Sheldrick Wildlife Trust: Elephant Orphanage

As far as Nairobi goes, this was the no.1 thing I wanted to do whilst there, I booked it prior to arrival for the morning after I landed. No time to waste. I couldn’t miss the chance to visit, and actually get to pet real baby elephants.

If you don’t already love elephants I think you will after doing this…..then topping it off later on this trip with safari game drives in Amboseli National Park to see them in herds, wild and free was just perfect.

I’ve been following Sheldrick Wildlife Trust across various social media for countless years, admiring the way they rescue and rear those poor animals – so I was quite excited to be able to go and see it all in person and even get to interact with baby elephants #cutenessoverload 

Amongst other animals they also have a resident rescue giraffe called Twiggy – I’m not sure if she was around that day but we did see seven giraffes come over to see what was going on before licking some salty earth that they seem to enjoy.

First one came up into view and walked over, then another then a few more….

Most of the animals are released back into the wild and adopted by past rescue animals – often in Tsavo National Park…so sweet!! 

You quickly catch on that warthogs are more commonly referred to as Pumbaa when you’re in Kenya (from Disney’s Lion King). You’ll see them quite a bit. 

Tip: the elephants love having the underside of their ears rubbed, their skin is very warm and soft under the ears while the rest of their skin is much cooler and thicker. Elephants are a lot hairier than I thought they would be…well I didn’t think they had any hair really, but you can see quite sizable hairs standing on end and feel them when you stroke some parts of their skin.  

Tip: wear chocolate brown colour clothes (only joking, you don’t have to) but just know that when you get up close to the ropes to touch the elephants, mud splashes are pretty much guaranteed when the younger of the group start flicking and splashing runny mud all over the place….depending on where you’re standing.

It was funny (and secretly satisfying) to see people who had been hogging spaces up front suddenly run away as soon as the splashing started.  

You’ll probably get mud on your hands as well if you’re petting the elephants while their muddy skin is still wet. 

I wasn’t expecting it but didn’t mind…what harm is a bit of nature’s organic mud. People pay hard earned cash to smother it on their skin out of a fancy packet or at a spa right? The mud washes off – you’ll be fine…I mean how often do you get to interact with elephants – who cares about a bit of mud. Just be mindful if you have a fancy camera lense.

Three Nuns and Seven Giraffes!

Three nuns (I’m assuming) dressed all in white appeared as everyone was leaving and there were only a few people still lingering, they came forward to look at the gathering of giraffes. Not a speck of mud on them, so maybe they weren’t around when the elephants were around.

Snack Time: Nairobi Giraffe Centre

Organised trips to the Nairobi elephant orphanage usually include a visit to the Nairobi Giraffe Centre where you get to feed the giraffes, so I did this as well. You can find lots of these types of trip via Viator/Get Your Guide, but hotels will be able set these up for you as well.  

Big Head!

I was really taken aback at the size of the giraffes’ heads, since you’re at eye level when feeding them, you get a really good perspective on those huge heads and unbelievably thick black eyelashes!! 

Apparently, the average male giraffe has six females that are ‘his’ females. 

The group we visited at the giraffe centre had ‘Eddie’ the dominant male and his three females and offspring, with two of his females pregnant, Daisy (and Kellie I think). Most of the time we were there, Eddie was hanging out by himself in the distance but eventually decided to come over and say hello.  

Well, I was truly shocked at how huge Eddie was. The females are tall enough, but the males are gigantic in body size and height, they’re much darker and have more head horns/humps/bumps too. When Eddie came over, all the females and younger giraffes would suddenly start moving away quickly, away from the snacks, as though they were scared….making giraffe noises. 

It’s the females you need to be wary off!

Ironically, one of the staff pointed out that Eddie is actually the gentlest and most chilled of all the giraffes and doesn’t mind being petted, you can get cheek to cheek with Eddie and take a selfie, but the females hate being touched – you can’t get too close to them, they’re the ones most likely to headbutt you. 

Pumbaa were mulling about on the ground around the giraffes legs – my guide said “they’re friends” when I wondered if they don’t worry about getting kicked by the giraffes. “wherever there’s a big animal, you’ll see Pumbaa hanging around, mopping up any dropped or left over food”……“the snack we’re feeding them is nothing….not even like us eating popcorn, it’s an even lighter snack than that for them”. 

Have no fear

The amount of people (adults and children) that seem terrified of the giraffes, not wanting the tongues to touch them or acting like the giraffes might bite, seemed so unnecessary. They were trying to throw the snacks into the giraffe’s mouth (often hitting the giraffe with them), spilling half of them on the floor and grabbing their hands away as though feeding a rabid dog. Honestly.

The giraffes just want the snack…not your fingers, I didn’t even see any teeth the whole time because they take the snack with their tongue not their teeth.  

Surprisingly, their tongues were not slimy and messy, in fact just soft, warm and smooth, no dribble and no lingering wetness on your fingers….neater and quieter eaters than some people quite frankly.

I read somewhere that giraffe saliva is antibacterial – but don’t worry, you do wash your hands again before you leave the centre…with antibacterial soap.

Carnivore Restaurant, Clue’s in the Title!!

This was the second must-do thing on my list for Nairobi. Carnivore restaurant kept getting a shout out the more I researched around things to do in Nairobi – it sounded like an ‘extreme meat’ experience, and I wanted to see it for myself….and yes it’s very popular with tourists.

Disclaimer: yes –there are also vegetarian options on the menu, so don’t worry.

Ostrich meatballs: a mince meat type of texture and quite tasty….not sure what they seasoned it with. 

Ostrich sliced meat: tougher than turkey – I preferred the meatballs.

Crocodile meat: like a chewy fatty version of chicken but the meat wasn’t stringy like chicken, it was more of a jelly texture than chicken texture – not keen.

Chicken liver: one of the most disgusting things I’ve ever tasted – foul. 

Ox testicles: I heard someone in the group say it’s a delicacy. I felt no need to try this, no need whatsoever.

I’m not sure if there is any special nutritional value that makes them appealing to those who like to eat them – maybe there is. Those around me who tried it had nothing positive to say about it.

There are many things you could tell me are a delicacy – but they will never ever pass my lips. 

All the other meats seemed pretty much what you’d expect. 

 

It’s basically an ‘eat as much as you like’ restaurant. It starts with a run down of each of the sauces they give you and recommendations on which sauce to have with which meat.

The staff will keep coming to your table with different meats and cut pieces for your plate until your table lays the flag down to signal you can’t eat anymore. Stuffed.

The ginger pudding I picked for dessert was very nice!  

Food sidenotes:

• I hear Nairobi has it’s own Chinatown…so there’ll probably be plenty of Chinese food places there if you want that
• I’d read somewhere that most Nairobi restaurants do not accept cash

Kobe Tough Ceramic Bead and Leather Factory

The business is run by vulnerable women, single mothers, and those who have fled domestic violence. Everything is handmade and the visit includes a tour of their entire production line from raw clay to hand painting and bead sewing before ending in the shop where you can buy finished products…all profits go back into the business and supporting the women. 

We were treated to a welcome dance from all the staff!!!

 

At the bead factory one of the staff said “I see you met the elephants earlier” indicating my mud splashes! 😂 #elephantsouvenir 

Souvenir/Lunch Stop

I lost count of how many places like this I stopped at during my trip but they’re pretty standard during a long drive for a toilet break – this one was in Nairobi…you never know where to look first!

Nairobi National Park

My driver/guide for the day gave us a bonus drive around the Nairobi National park to pass time while we waited for the elephant orphanage to open, I hadn’t planned on visiting this National Park – so that was a bonus!

Tip: 🚨 even if you’re not booked to do a Nairobi National Park tour, but you’re going to the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage, you still need to go online and make an independent advanced entry payment for the Nairobi National Park…. and that’s even if you’ve booked an excursion that says all your fees are included (double check with the organiser to be sure). This is because the elephant orphanage is situated within Nairobi National Park so you still have to pay it. You’ll be asked to show your personal QR code for scanning before you can enter. This additional cost came in at pretty much $50 US (an extra £37 at the time). Don’t get caught out like I almost did!! They won’t take cash either, you have to do it in advance, online.

On The Road

X2 Nairobi Hotels

Eka Hotel 

Eka is a very popular arrival hotel for before the start of a safari in Kenya, I spent three nights here and the staff in the restaurant and security in the lobby area were really nice, always friendly and very helpful. 

Four Points by Sheraton Nairobi Airport Hotel

Four Points was perfect for the extra night before my flight home, it’s literally in the airport and offers a free shuttle service to departures….5 min drive.

Four Points is part of the the Marriott group so you can take advantage of that and collect points. Felt like a huge upgrade from Eka Hotel. Sheraton is more modern with a lighter brighter aesthetic. Ironing board in the room lol, unlike Eka…but only one small bottle of water 🙁

African restaurant on the top (5th) floor, its a chilled vibe up there, with a roof top pool, bar, and DJ in the evening.

Business Lounge

Homeward bound…

Good night and farewell Kenya – thank you for having me, it’s been a true blessing! 🙏