Cruise ships have invaded many other islands but not Naxos, it’s still a bit of a hidden gem, not yet swamped by travel companies, mass tourism, celebrities or droves of social media influencers.  

I don’t think I’ve ever heard a negative word said about this little Island, other than it being a bit too quiet for some people…the party animals and a bit windy in colder months.

Naxos doesn’t really need tourism – the economy thrives on lemon, grapes, olives, and cheese production, and wears the crown for best food on the Greek islands.

After being on Santorini for a while, you’ll feel the contrast immediately when you step foot on Naxos soil. It doesn’t feel congested.

Nobody Talks About Naxos  

Well they do, but not in the same way we keep hearing about Mykonos and Santorini. In some ways Naxos has become quite common as a Cyclades island hopping stop.

Naxos is less crowded, slower paced, more peaceful, dominated and inhabited by locals, including Greek holiday makers, home to centuries old churches, heavier on the traditional Greek charm, and more affordable than its extroverts sisters (Santorini and Mykonos).

You’ll get white sandy beaches on Naxos, and a quaint little Chora (old town), and the island doesn’t really shut down the way others do in the shoulder months. 

Its a great base for ‘ferry-hopping’ to neighbouring islands and the ferry port, taxis and buses are all easy to walk to from the main town. 

Loving the creative hand painted bistro tables above.

Any good beaches?

I read somewhere that the beaches near the port were not very nice and that you needed to travel a bit to get to the nicer beaches – I’d agree.  

Agios Georgios Beach is the nearest to the old town and port, you can walk there. Any beach is nice, but this one isn’t going to ‘wow’ you. There are lots of places to eat and the beach is a pretty long stretch, but very busy, people all over the beach to the point of feeling crowded….hate that lol, I like to see more sand than people on the beach.

The sand is ok, a bit worn down with so many people all over it ….but guys, drive or catch a bus up to Agios Prokopios Beach (approx 15 mins away) and you will see and feel a big difference. 

Agios Prokopios Beach is a beautiful deep white powdery sand beach with lovely blue waves. Some say it’s the best beach on the island. The vibe is up a few notches on this beach, it certainly looks more inviting with better sun loungers than the ones on Agios Georgios Beach. 

Over tourism? 

Last year, locals were protesting against the amount of fee charging sun beds taking up public beach space, I wonder if that’s all settled down now.

An artist seller in the pretty village of Apeiranthos asserted that if the cruise ships start coming to Naxos, it’s all over.

He also said a lot of the items made in Naxos, including arts and crafts are being very accurately copied and replicated by ‘a certain large country on the Asian continent’ – passing them off as genuine Greek items.

Another restaurant worker told us “I don’t go down there” pointing dramatically to the main tourist strip where the thick of the restaurants are in Chora. He said he comes to work and goes home in the opposite direction – and feels like the tourist season has expanded.

Where he used to be busy for around three months of the year with tourist crowds it has now become more of a six month season. Tourists are coming in ever growing numbers outside the official tourist season.

We skipped Plaka Beach after I cottoned on that it was popular with nudists lol. I didn’t want to turn up not dressed appropriately!!! I’ve heard it’s a really nice non-touristy beach though, a fine sandy beach, but on a windy day the fine sand blows everywhere like dust.

Above: back to the main town. 

Food and drink  

Naxos has a reputation for being one of the best Greek islands for foodies, much of its produce is home grown/home or made on Naxos. I also heard it from good local sources that Naxos has the best….wait for it……’potatoes’ in Greece, as well as the second best wine and cheese (only second to France).

You might think olives and olive oil would rank high globally for Greece, but a local told us that they don’t have enough olive trees to be able to export the oil, so it’s only really produced for local consumption. Olive trees also take a very long time to grow.

Local intel:  the tap water in Naxos homes isn’t ideal for drinking, but tap water in public places comes from the mineral mountains.

Heads-Up on the guy in the black T shirt

Above: The man in the black t shirt and playing an instrument in front of people eating played a tune or two. Then to my surprise, he started walking up to every table in the restaurant waiting for people to put their knives and forks down and dig around for some money. Next thing, he’s stood right in front of the table behind me, giving that table a private musical performance (that they didn’t ask for, their faces said it all). 

Lamb is hard to come by, according to one restaurant manager, beef is easier.

The Bakery

As per usual, when in Greece, check out the nearest bakery.

The chocolate cake is perfection.

Above: the ravioli was good but not as nice as the pizza. Greek pizzas are very nice.

 

KFC crisps!!!! Whatever next. I didn’t try these or the Pizza Hut crisps…..

Shopping 

I’d heard that Naxos is great for shopping, and that you get more interesting, unique and handmade items at a fraction of the price compared to some of the more popular islands. Well….I think yes and no there.  

Yes I saw a few interesting souvenirs and things to buy that looked very unique but not particularly cheap. 

There didn’t seem to be any recognisable designer brands or high street names, just local businesses.

Overall, I thought a lot of the clothes (dresses in particular) were still on a par with Santorini prices (Fira prices). 

Take a walk up and around all the town’s surrounding roads to find more shops, and more Greek charm.

The market in the old town is a beautiful labyrinth of independent shops – you absolutely must wander in and allow yourself to get lost. Go up and up from the castle and admire the little winding back lanes. Just keep heading in a downward direction to get back to the port, you can’t go wrong really. 

A great little shop for food gifts

I spent ages in this beautiful little shop, tucked in a corner and full of delicious things. I left with two bags worth of chutneys after sampling quite a few 😋🤭 The favourite has to be the ‘sweet chilli red pepper’ its so good!!

Free wifi   

Chora and the main town area offers free Wi-Fi. Anytime you’re in the main town/centre you can access it, no passwords required. 

Individual restaurants don’t seem to offer free Wi-Fi – but hotels do, pretty standard these days.

The Buses

It seems as though you buy your tickets in advance. There’s a ‘Naxos Bus Transfer’ tourist office type place down near the port (on the restaurant strip), near where the buses pick up and drop off. Buy your single/return tickets there – give to the driver before boarding. 

Single tickets to Agios Prokopios were 2 euros per person (4 euros return). If the buses get full, you stand in the aisle…as many ‘as they can squeeze on’ seems the norm in Greece. 

Above: that popular photo spot we see a lot on social media. You’ll find it next to a supermarket on the main road that winds round from the bus pick up point.

The Bells 

I’m not sure exactly which church it was, but in the morning and I think late afternoon early evening there is an almighty clanging of church bells that will drag you out of any sleep instantly. Wake up, siesta is over. Love that!! 

Mosquitos

I’ve heard travellers say they’ve had major problems in some of their Naxos Air B&B accommodation with mosquitos. Maybe it’s not so bad in the hotels. I was mixing a few repellent essential oils into my body lotions (citronella, peppermint, lemon and eucalyptus oils) and a little repellent spray in the evening is always helpful. I got one bite in Santorini, but none in Naxos….so there you go!!  I did get a couple in Crete, and one in Paros I think.

I saw someone on the beach with lots of obvious big red bites on their thighs. Anywhere near water is a likely hang out and also if you’re staying somewhere very leafy green, and night time is when they come out to feast en mass.

Another thing- they might hide in your clothing, so give it a good shake before dressing, or keep it in a protective cover. 

Blasting the air con helps too – they hate any kind of breeze.

Warm friendly people

There was plenty of talk about the weather, the Greeks were all in agreement that the heat has been too much and much sooner this year than usual.. ..not just on Naxos but all over Greece.

One restaurant manager showed me pictures of when he was younger, he had them on his phone, and talked proudly about his family before giving us recommendation on places to go on Naxos.  

On the other hand, I’m not sure how friendly they think British tourists are!

At a quick stop at the restaurant below, one of the staff commented that British tourists tend to be a bit serious and not that friendly 😟 …they had the best orange cake by the way.

Cats

You don’t really see many dogs in Greece, but cats are king. There is clearly a cat population on each island and the locals leave food and water on the streets for them. Whether you’re up in the mountainous and farming areas or down in Chora, you’ll come across lots of cats, they’re everywhere.

Windy

Naxos is known for being quite a windy island, which is not a bad thing in the heat, but hold on to your hats!! I heard the wind is strongest in July and August. Early June wasn’t windy at all – just a nice breeze from time to time. Locals said it was normally breezier that time of year, but not so much this year. 

Excursions  

As well as all the stuff you can book online, there are various day trip booking places around Chora around the port. I’m not sure, but I suspect you might get better prices booking on the island in person. I wanted to do an organised hike, but it was cancelled, so that turned into another beach day. 

Below: Apollonas Beach area

Quick stop at an olive oil museum during an organised tour:

THE HEAT  

The heat at 6pm felt no different from the heat at 2pm. 

Apeiranthos, Marble Village

Greece has a lot of marble, but they only export it to Japan and Saudi Arabia because export costs are very expensive.

Back in the old town, Chora

You will surely hear loud music into the night from surrounding bars etc.. if you’re staying in the main central hub, so think about that when choosing accommodation if it’s going to be a problem for you.

Brunch and then off for the ferry to Paros….

Breakfast, followed by complimentary cake and complimentary melon!! With all that refuelling, I was ready to go head to head with the ferries again!!